In Kerala, India
November-December, 2002
(see maps below)
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Biking in Kerala 3 December 2002 Yesterday from Allapey, a Southern town built on canals, we checked out before nine AM to catch the local ferry that would take us on the river 2 hours away to Kottayam towards the eastern side of Kerala. So many rivers and water ways, so many rides, the possibilities are endless.Lots of great scenes by the water and the people are gentle and kind . The next day we rented a motor bike for a 3 day voyage to the hills. By early afternoon we were traveling with all our gear (though to a minimum) on the west eastern road towards the western ghats of Kerala. Steadily climbing we passed the big rubber plantations. It was sunny when we started but getting slowly darker, making the greenery like silver and eerie. At a turn in the road 2 trucks, charging logs were standing magnificent, covered with paintings of flowers, freazes, and scenes of horses jumping in the wild and all that the imagination can recreate. I had to take a picture! So Martin (my friend) stopped. After a few minutes some big drops of rain came about . Shall we go quick? The sky was black. We still had a long way to go before reaching the tea plantations, and hopefully to find a place to sleep in the hills. No it was better to wait, this was a rain that would not last. On the 4th of December monsoon is over. It rained hard. How lucky we were! Across the road there was one small stall tea shop. The little man let us park the bike under the woven matt in front and the lady of the hut made us some chai. The sweet little man by chance could speak good English which is rare in Kerala among the common folks. (my Hindi is useless at most times ). We learned that 12 kms ahead there would be a place where we could stop. We had driven a while and how great it was to lay down even on the hard floor with the help of my pillow and rest my back. The rain was fading away and he gave us the okay to leave . So many moments we have passed sharing with people from one tea shop to another, and from one beautiful spot to the next. Little talks and laughs, new friends for a while. When we say good by , we know more of each other and have obtained a feeling of not only care and joy but also a respect for other lives and different life styles . That's all were going to get but we have become a little more rich in the heart . As we climbed we were surrounded by mountains and spotted the first tea plantations. There was even some blue sky. We had already driven 70kms and before the remaining ones we stopped to put on more clothes. Not that I had much to wear but an extra shirt and my khaddi lungi did help. Though my legs were cold sticking out of my skirt! We passed the 4500f feet and kept on climbing. We arrived to this lodge in the middle of nowhere where we were given a big room, one of the 8 of that government tourist guest house. It had a balcony with a view on the estate, the tall trees were impressive . It was another Indian wonder away from villages, noise, and confusion. Dinner in the room and hot water!!! ouahoh!! The next morning we drove to the edge of the western ghats and entered the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Not caring much for tigers that no one sees any way we did not take the boat ride on the lake like hundreds of other people on holidays, since it was the last day of Ramadan. In the small town there was an endless amount of spice shops selling at great prices. I stocked up on beautiful green cardamom, cinnamon, and Kerala tea leaves. All that for the next chai. We started early the next day as we had a lot of mileage to do for our way back towards the coast. We came down by the side of the Western Ghats which form Kerala's Eastern border. An impressive mountain range that runs down the west of the subcontinent from Mumbai to the southern tip of India. After reading about them so many times at last I could appreciate their majesty. On the eastern side it was a treat to follow the immense tea plantations. The women workers in the distance were cutting the leaves, it was so beautiful! Just like a ballet. We took off on a side road which climbed a huge estate of plantations, and stopped way above. In the middle of it all we basked in the sun contemplating the stunning view of the tea leaves. Their bushes were organized in such a strange pattern like mosaic. It was fascinating. Going down the mountains, dark clouds were every where. We were hoping for no rain.But it came.We kept driving since it was not such a bad rain. The air was cool and fresh I was rapped in all my lungis. After more than an hour suddenly we felt the air warming up and slowly the sun reappeared .we did not mind the warmth again. By then the rubber trees had taken over and once more we could see the flattened pieces of rubber drying by the road. Different eco systems...India true to its nature of variation and change. No matter where we went, off the main track in Goa or in the hills of Kerala, rolling with the bike fast or slow, children, men, and women of all back grounds would wave endlessly as we passed by. On their bright faces such an energy and intention to communicate and to make us feel welcome! You could say I was the waving committee! But often I thought it was much wiser to keep holding on! So I just gave a big smile one after another. Except for a handful we met no foreigners on this trip. Another night stop before we would reach the bigger city of Kottayam where we would return the bike. Then the train back to Allapey where the next day would be a huge festival with 1000's of lamps in a temple. The elephants will be there in full parade. Music as well as singing and dances and all the pujas and rituals. We cannot miss it. A complete experience for Martin that will soon be returning home to the west. Please excuse my poor English! but Neptune is not here any more to edit .! I could keep traveling for 1000s of years like this! It would not bother me at all! Ciao! With love, Gypsie |
 India |
 Kerala |
 Districts Of Kerala |
 Alappuzha District |
 Kottayam District |
 Idukki District |
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